If there is one thing that defines Liébana, besides its spectacular scenery, it is its outstanding cheesemaking tradition. In this region, surrounded by the Picos de Europa, some of Cantabria’s most celebrated cheeses are produced, the result of the skilled work of generations of local farmers and cheesemakers. Many of our guests ask us about authentic experiences that capture the spirit of the area, and one of the most rewarding, without a doubt, is visiting one of Liébana’s dairies and discovering first-hand how these unique products are made.
A valley with a cheesemaking soul
Liébana is not only about nature and silence: it is also about flavour, identity and craftsmanship. Its geographical isolation over the centuries, ringed by mountains and separated from the rest of Cantabria by the Picos de Europa, helped shape a distinctive food culture in which cheese holds a place of honour. Here, cow’s, sheep’s and goat’s milk are transformed into small gastronomic treasures that tell stories of families, shepherds and whole generations devoted to their flocks and their craft.
The best known, without doubt, is Queso de Liébana, which holds Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) status and comes in several varieties: fresh, semi-cured and cured, made from whole cow’s, sheep’s or goat’s milk, or from blends of the three. It is a cheese with real character, full-flavoured yet beautifully balanced, reflecting the purity of the surroundings in which it is produced.
And of course, no account of Liébana would be complete without mentioning Picón Bejes-Tresviso, another PDO cheese from the area, famous for its unmistakable blue character. It is matured in natural caves in the Picos de Europa, where constant humidity and temperature allow Penicillium moulds to work their magic. The result is a bold, distinctive cheese that combines intensity and creaminess in every mouthful.
A journey of flavours
Visiting Liébana is not only a feast for the eyes: it is a journey for the senses. Few experiences are more authentic than stepping inside an artisan dairy, seeing how cheese is made step by step and, of course, tasting it there and then with a good wine or a piece of traditional Lebaniego bread.
One dairy well worth visiting is Quesería Lebanés, in Cabezón de Liébana. This family-run business makes cheeses using traditional methods with an innovative touch, ranging from fresh and semi-cured to more mature varieties.
Quesería Río Deva, in Camaleño, offers visits where the process behind the area’s artisan cheeses is explained. It is an ideal outing for families or for anyone looking for a different kind of getaway.
Another excellent option is Quesos Baró. Located in the village of Baró, in the municipality of Camaleño, it produces designation-of-origin cheeses, including Quesucos de Liébana and artisan varieties made from goat’s milk, cow’s and goat’s milk, cow’s, sheep’s and goat’s milk, and sheep’s milk.
In Potes, the capital of Liébana, you will also find several shops where local products can be tasted and purchased.
Another wonderful option is to head to Bejes or Tresviso, the villages that give Picón its name. In these mountain hamlets, time seems to stand still, and some dairies still mature their cheeses in the very same natural caves used by their ancestors.
